Friday, January 20, 2017

The Aldaia Dress

Pauline Alice Aldaia Dress

View B with longer sleeves
Size 38 Bodice with 40 Skirt
Fabric:  Nicole Miller



I have found a new pattern that I love!  There are 3 dress versions, all equally as beautiful.  I am not a big fan of PDF patterns; however, this one went together pretty easy.  I love how each bodice, sleeve, and skirt is a separate file so you can pick and choose what to print.  To me, this makes it so much easier to assemble the pattern since the entire dress isn't printed and taped together in one massive sheet.  Smaller sections helped my sanity and saved me some paper and tape.  Also, being able to pick and choose between 3 bodices, 3 sleeves, and 3 skirts, you can create many different looks.


I like the side slits.  Since I shorted the skirt pattern by 3.25 inches, I just picked a spot to take the split up to, not even measuring to see what the actual pattern placed it at.  I found the slits to be a little pesky to hem since my fabric is stretchy.  To make it easier on myself, I cut a thin strip of knit interfacing to stabilize them.  The bottom hem I was able to use my covers stitch machine without any problem.



The back skirt and back bodice pieces both have two darts at the waistline.  It's nearly impossible to see them because of my fabric print.  The darts allow for some nice shaping at the waistline and a swayback adjustment wasn't needed.



I love the modest wrap of the front bodice!  It is so hard to find a wrap top or dress that is high enough or won't gap open dare you move or bend over.  The last thing I want to have to do after I have made something is to add a pin or a snap to keep it closed.



For my next make, I'll be making View C of this pattern!

Thanks for stopping by ~ Shirley

Sunday, January 1, 2017

McCall's 7079

McCall's 7079
Size 12
Fabric: Jersey Knit



What a well drafted little pattern this is!  I didn't have to make any alterations--everything fit perfectly.  My daughter loves it and immediately asked if I could make her another one.  She actually wants a third, but we decided to postpone that make until closer to summer since the other fabric is a tropical floral-type print.


The pattern instructions have you turn under the fabric for the neck. I prefer an actual neckband, so I cut a strip of fabric 2 inches in width, folding wrong sides together, and attaching to the wrong side of the neckline.  Then I folded it over onto itself and attached with a tiny zig zag stitch.  Lighter knit fabrics are a little trickier for me to handle and I have found that doing it this way makes the neck more stable.  I don't end up with a floppy, stretched out neckband.



I used my serger and cover stitch machine for the entire assembly of this dress, making it so quick! I do use my sewing machine to baste the neckband on, prior to serging, to ensure everything looks right.


This version is made in a ponte knit.  I also made a neckband here, but since it is a thicker fabric, I attached it as you would for any t-shirt.  I cut the neckband at 1 and 3/4 inch width, attaching with a 1/2 inch seam allowance.  I cut the length long and slightly pull on it as I sew it to the neck, cutting off the excess once I reach the end.


As you can see above in the pattern illustration, there are other versions that can be made with options to the bodice back, as well as a gathered skirt with elastic insertion.  Since we are still having cool temperatures, I opted for no open back designs and I'd much rather not have to gather the skirt if I don't have to.  With this dress version, the skirt top matches perfectly to the bodice bottom and no elastic is used.


Happy New Year!

Thanks for stopping by ~ Shirley



Monday, November 21, 2016

Kelly Anorak

Closet Case Files
Kelly Anorak Jacket
Size 8
Fabric:  Twill


I made a jacket!  I'm so thrilled with how it turned out.  Initially I thought it might be beyond my skill level to make, but I decided to give it a try anyway.  I'm glad I did because I love everything about it!  It is very RTW looking.





It does take time to sew the Kelly up, especially if you make the flat fell seams.  It is worth it though because of the nice clean finish you have inside.  I didn't make my own bias tape.  I would have had to purchase more fabric, and at 3.5 yards to make it (45"), I was okay with purchasing a package.  Actually, I rather like the little bit of contrast at the hemline.

I hit a snag with the zipper installation.  I was following Closet Case files blog tutorial so closely that I did not realize that my zipper pull was located on the opposite side of their zipper pull.  Had I been paying attention, I would have realized that my first part of my zipper wasn't lining up against the edge before I sewed it.  Since I put in the zipper side that didn't have the pull, I put it in right side up (both sides kind of look the same if the pull isn't on it).  Unfortunately I didn't realize what I had done until I was ready to sew in the left side!  I really wanted to cry.  I thought I was done at that point, but I decided to unpick all my placket stitches and put it in the right way.  I'm so glad I did!  Anyway, I never knew that zipper pulls could vary from one side to the other, so I wanted to share that.


I love the length.  I didn't make any alteration to it.  I cut everything out on a size 8 and just sewed it up.



Look at these wonderful big pockets!  I think it would be fun to make smaller pockets at the top too should I make this again.  I imagine I will.  This is the first time I have worked with snaps.  Wawak has a snap kit which I highly recommend.  The tool that comes with it makes it pretty simple and I found a Prym video tutorial online.  I had a little trouble with the topside of the snap since it has to be lined up perfectly with the piece that goes on the underside of the fabric.  I managed to bend a few before I realized what I was doing wrong.  



I considered lining the jacket but decided it might make it too warm for me.  I want to be able to wear this a lot and I have other warm coats in my closet.  However, I did line the hood with black flannel.  I thought bringing in a little more black would look nice since my drawstring and zipper are both black.

Thanks for stopping by ~ Shirley



Sunday, October 30, 2016

Ottobre Lampi Jeggings with Jalie Dolman

Jalie Dolman Top 3352
Size T
Alterations:  Added 7 inches to the length

Ottobre Lampi Jeggings 5/2014-13
Size 36


I love the Jalie Dolman top.  I have made it several times for me and my girls.  I love that it comes in multiple sizes to accommodate all of us.  As my girls grow, I just trace the next size.  The shirt is so easy to make and looks different depending on your fabric choice.  For this tunic, I used a gray rayon knit from Joann's.  


I decided after making my jeggings that I wanted a tunic top to wear with them.  I wanted one that would fit me as good as the Jalie Dolman, so it occurred to me to just add some length.  Two hours later I had a new top.  Both sides of the fabric were not quite the same.  One side side was a little darker, which I used for the neck band.  To lengthen, I started at the pattern notch and gradually took my width out to 1/2" at the hemline.


I have wanted to make these jeggings ever since I received the 2014 Ottobre issue.  What was holding me back?  I could not find the right type of fabric I wanted to make them in.  Then one day while shopping Fabric.com, I came upon Telio Bailey Knit Black fabric.  It is medium/heavy weight and absolutely perfect for jeggings!


I used my cover stitch machine to do all top stitching, with the exception of the back pockets, coin pocket, and the single line of stitching on the outer side seam.  I wanted to be sure not to compromise any stretch the fabric would have.


I really like my outfit.  I have never owned a pair of jeggings until now.  One pair of jeggings will be sufficient for my needs, but I will definitely be adding many more Dolman tunics to my wardrobe.

Thanks for stopping by ~ Shirley

Thursday, October 20, 2016

Some Favorites Sewn Up Again

McCall's Top 7247
Ottobre Mini Skirt 5/2016


Top blogged previously here.
Skirt blogged previously here.


I did a couple of things differently this time.  I tacked the shirt down within the overlapped seam in a couple of places so the wind won't blow it open.

Also, last time I took 2 inches off the skirt length after I had made it.  This time I altered the pattern.  It does make a difference sometimes how you alter length.  If you take it off at the hem, you might alter dimensions width wise, especially with the way this skirt vents open.


This blouse fabric is the exact fabric on the McCall's pattern--how lucky is that!  I bought it not even knowing.  Then when I was going through my patterns to select a blouse, it occurred to me that I had that same fabric.  How could I not make it in this blouse!  Besides, I really love my first version of it.


This is definitely my kind of outfit.  It is so comfortable and perfect for fall and winter.  Warm enough to venture outside, but not so hot that you will bake indoors.


I made my slip not necklace too. I found a video online and was finished in minutes.

***

Here is another pair of jeans for my son, previously blogged here.  These are Ottobre's Hi-hat pants.  I have made these several times.


This time I left off all pocket flaps, used a different pocket for the backside from another pattern I made for my son, as well as adding an outer side pocket for his phone.


I used a lot of bar tacks for design.  The copper jeans top stitching thread looks fabulous with the dark brown denim.  The fabric is heavy weight, so rather stiff looking at the moment.  Until cooler weather, I will keep these jeans in the laundry room and wash with every load of jeans and towels in hopes to soften them up.


I made these in a 170, so they are a little big with this pattern.  But, this will ensure (hopefully) they will fit throughout winter.


***

Here is a skirt I made a few months ago.  This is Paprika's Jade skirt--Love!

It is fully lined and the front side has fabric folds making it a very stylish-looking skirt.  I will definitely be making more Jade skirts in other colors.



Thanks for stopping by ~ Shirley

Tuesday, October 4, 2016

Flannel/knit button-up & Ottobre Boy's Jeans

McCall's 7447
Men's Size Small

Ottobre Spring 1/2014
#37 Desert Denim Jeans
Size 170


It's been a while since I've sewn for my son.  He has nearly outgrown all of his clothes that I've made, so new shirts and  jeans are in the sewing que for him.  He is growing up fast!

I picked up this fun winter knit fabric--he loves all things penguin related.


I love how this pattern combines a flannel shirt with knit sleeves.  I found there to be a little too much ease in the cap of the sleeve, so I ran a basting stitch to help control the fabric while easing it in.

I lined the hood with the same knit I used for the sleeves, encasing the neck seam.  See my post here on how I did that.


As you can see, this shirt does not have a back yoke, so it is not very fitted.


Here are the Ottobre jeans.  I'm really happy with the fit.  I made these in a 170 for him, which is the largest pattern size offered in their magazine.  I can't believe he is sizing out of Ottobre now.  The only change I made was to redraft the fly.  I prefer to follow Jalie Jeans pattern instructions, so I added the necessary pattern extension to the Ottobre pants front fly area, making assembly for the zipper much easier on me.


You can see in the above picture how the back yoke is fairly wide, so the pockets sit low.  





I love the back pocket detail, which was included in the Ottobre pattern instructions.  The sky is the limit with how you can design a back pocket, but I usually lack in ideas here.  I appreciate that Ottobre had something unique outlined for that.  It's been a while since I have added rivets to jeans; I forgot how much fun that was to do!

Thanks for stopping by ~ Shirley 


Thursday, September 22, 2016

Ottobre Tunic, Mini Skirt, & Leggings

Ottobre 5/2016

#8, Drapefront Top, Size 38
#7, Mini skirt, Size 36
#9, Leggings, Size 36


This was such a fun and easy outfit to make.  All three patterns utilize very few pieces and sew up quickly.

I had to remove quite a bit of length in the tunic so it wouldn't be a dress on me.  But, yay me, I can also make this as a dress one day--ha!  I removed 4 inches on my tunic length, but after made, I had to remove an additional 2 inches.  It was too long, covering my not-so-mini skirt on me...something else I had to shorten after the fact.  I also found the sleeves to be rather long, so I cut 2 inches off there as well.  I did my normal 1/2 inch sway back adjustment.


I love how the CF, CB, and shoulder seams are sewn wrong sides together with a rolled hem. At the hemline, a rolled hem is also sewn.  I opted for black thread to tie into my skirt color, giving a nice contrast to my top too so those threads would really stand out.


I love the neckline on this.  When stabilizing the shoulder areas on the back pieces, make sure whatever you use doesn't exceed the width of your rolled hem.  I cut too wide a strip of interfacing and it was visible on the inside, so I had to work at peeling it off my fabric.


CB seam is a nice little detail.


Love, love, love these leggings.  You just wouldn't think that legging patterns would be so different from pattern to pattern.  These are the first that truly fit me well.  I had to shorten them by 3 inches.


Here you can see the front detail of the skirt a little better.  The skirt fronts overlap.  This is intended to be a mini and I forgot that mini patterns are usually down to my knees.  Normally this is great when I don't want a mini.  However, since I'm wearing leggings and flats, mini is a better look for me since my legs are kind of short.  My skirt material is a nice heavy weight knit.  Top of skirt is folded over, encasing elastic.

I'm sure that this is going to be one of my favorite outfits to wear this fall and winter!  

Thanks for stopping by ~ Shirley