Monday, October 20, 2014

Men to Boys Pants Refashion & Zipper Tutorial

Check out this refashion I made for my son's new pants!  I used our favorite pattern
Ottobre 4/2008 #33 Hi-Hat Pants, Size 140 with added length

You'll see some pics below how I cut out the pattern using a men's size pant.  I was able to keep all the outside leg cargo pockets intact.

I turned up the bottom hem 1 inch and then again another inch, so I can let the length out for growing room.

The only place I had to get resourceful was where the front pocket joined the back yoke (you'll see below how this created an usual angle cutting the pant leg out as one piece).  I couldn't sew a side seam here, so I overlapped the edge and then created a strap to cover the rough edges.  With so much going on in the fabric and pockets, it is barely noticeable.

Pockets all the way down the leg--how cool is that?  My son loves these!

I started with a pair of camo pants, as well as a jacket (not pictured).  A military surplus store is a great place to find a pair unless you know someone willing to part with theirs.  Ebay might be another good source for a used pair.

Cut along both inseam pant legs and lie flat.

I laid my pattern along the outer leg seam, making sure to disregard the seam allowance on my pattern since the front and back pattern pieces are joined together (see below).

You can see how the "seam allowance" is overlapped where the pattern is joined as if one.

Now I have a complete leg piece.  It looks kind of strange how the top portion is cut, but at the moment it does not include the back yoke or the fabric that will be added to create the pocket.  For this pant, I left of the pocket flap since I have plenty of pockets all ready. 

Order of assembly:

Sew the back yokes on.
 Attach the pocket and pocket facings to the front leg sections.
 Make my strip to cover the side seam that was overlapped.
 Sew the leg inseams.  
Put one pant leg inside the other and sew the crotch seam, leaving the fly facing open.  
Insert the zipper.
 Make the belt loops.
 Attach the waistband.

I'm not sure why I haven't thought of doing this before; it was pretty easy and not to mention very time saving!  I had these pants done in just a couple of hours.  I cut out the back yoke, waistband, and belt loop strips from the jacket.  If you don't have a jacket, you could also use a coordinating fabric.  I used tan micro twill for the waistband facing.  


Here is a fly-front zipper installation picture tutorial--I followed the instructions included in the Ottobre magazine for this.  Their illustration is very good, but I know sometimes it helps to see an actual project in progress.  By the time I took these pictures, the crotch seam had been sewn and fly shield constructed.

Sew the zipper to the fly shield

Press a narrow edge on the right front opening of the zipper facing 

Place zipper that is attached to fly shield underneath narrow edge and sew

Fold the left front zipper facing under and give it a good press

Now line up your zipper tape with the edge of the fly facing that you just pressed under.  Don't sew through all layers--only the folded under edge.

Like this...

Now prepare for top stitching, keeping fly shield out of the way

I give it another good press with the iron

Draw with chalk a top stitching line--I just free hand this

Finished with the zipper!  Do NOT cut off the top part of the zipper until after your waistband is sewn on.  I have done this...a couple of times.

That's it!

Thanks for stopping by ~ Shirley

Thursday, October 9, 2014

Burda Top with Leggings

Burda Young 7678
Size 36

paired with Ottobre Sammalikko Leggings
Size 34

 I started out looking through my assortment of legging patterns and was going to trace something new.  Then I got to thinking, "why am I doing that?"  "Use what I already know fits and works well."  Out came my Ottobre Women's Legging Pattern Sammalikko.  I am so glad I chose this pattern...again.  Twice before I used a sweater knit.  This time I chose a Ponte de Roma knit--LOVE!  These are such a quick and easy sew.  I could never tire of these and I need one in every color now!

For my top, I used Burda 7678.  There are two options available--wrap-style top or a slight v-neck top.  I do like how it turned out.  However, I am not thrilled about the neckline, nor how it is sewn together.  The instructions clearly state to stop the shoulder seam 5/8" before the neckline, pressing open, and then stitching the neckband.  That was not fun.  I basted this seam 3 times before I said, "that's enough" and went with what I had.  I'm not the most patient seamstress.  I do like a good project, but this was just a t-shirt, a simple one at that, so it tried my level of patience.  It's not bad.  Next time though, I will definitely reshape the neckline and sew it the way my other t-shirts are assembled.  

I also made a narrower band at the bottom.  I only purchased 2 yards of my knit and this top requires 2 1/4 yards for size 36.  When I make this top again, I will still keep the narrower band though because I think it is a good width for me.  I also added a band at the sleeve hem.  I thought it would be fun to have the stripe going horizontal there.  Truth be told, my coverstitch machine got hungup on the thin fabric and made a mess of the hem, which I then put a whole into when I was ripping out the stitches...again, lack of patience clearly evident now.  It was a creative recovery, which I have found lends itself to some good inspirational tactics.

Fabric purchased from Girl Charlee:

Shitake Brown Heather Gray Half Inch Stripe Cotton Jersey Blend Knit Fabric
Shitake Mushroom Brown Solid Ponte de Roma Fabric

I have to take a bit of a break.  It is surgery time once again for me.  It is time to get these rocks expanders removed from my chest and get implants.  I am also getting my port removed!  It has been in me since February 2012.  It will be nice to sleep comfortable on my side again, something I have been unable to do.  Since my last surgery in May, I have had to sleep in the recliner with pillows to kind of get somewhat on my side.  Sleeping all night on my back gives me a backache, so a bed has been out of the question for now.  I will still require another procedure after this one to finish things up, but I think that is done as outpatient--I hope so.  It has been a long path to follow, but now there is light at the end of the tunnel and I am so happy to be almost finished with the process.  

Thanks for stopping by ~ Shirley

Friday, October 3, 2014

Wyome Boyfriend Jeans

I made the Wyome Boyfriend Jean!  I had such great results with the Jaime, that I was anxious to give these a try.  I decided to make them in a 36.  I felt like I was a little borderline with a 34, thinking that it was a safe bet to go up a size.  Well, I don't think that was such a good idea.  Why can't I just leave things alone?

from the shirt edge down, the fit looks pretty good.

I'm happy with the back, although I did take a big chunk of fabric out of the CB seam.  I also brought the pockets up.  I could tell from the pattern picture that I probably wouldn't like them that low.  I am happy with the pocket placement.

Side looks pretty good too.  A nice looser fit, which is why I wanted the pattern, but not baggy...yet.

Here is where this fit is a fail for me.  Darn it!  However, going up a size I don't think would account for this HUGE amount of excess fabric for me.  If I make in a 34, how do I compensate for this and what adjustment would I make.  Why is there so much fabric here?

I think a better fit would have been a 34 in the waist and hips and then taper out to a 36 in the legs.

For my buttons, I covered them in denim, which I really like.

Overall, minus my error of making them too big, I really like this pattern.  It is well drafted and goes together pretty quickly.

Thanks for stopping by ~ Shirley

Monday, September 29, 2014

Ottobre Boy's Cargo Pocket Pants

Ottobre 4/2008 #33 Hi-Hat Pants, Size 140
Alteration:  Additional length added

Athletic Jersey, self-made 

I love making these pants for my son.  This is the 3rd time.  You can see my initial review here.
This is such a great pattern that I have yet to make him any other style pants.  However, now he has put in a request for black twill with no pockets...same pant pattern though.  

There are 6 pockets and boy are they time consuming!  I spent nearly 4 hours on pockets alone.  Ottobre's instructions for the zipper installation are great and make the process very easy to follow.

A while back I made my son this jersey, made by tracing a RTW athletic jersey that I had.  See how to do this here.  Since he is a Portal 2 fan, I found a drawing online and made a stencil of it with freezer paper.  That was really fun to do and I need to do that more often with shirts.

It takes 9 buttons to make these, which can get pricey.  What I did this time was to cut off the buttons of the pair he outgrew and just recycled them to this outfit.  

Thanks for stopping by ~ Shirley

Thursday, September 25, 2014

Sweater Leggings with Hoodie

Ottobre Women's 5/2014
#9 Everyday Luxe Jersey Hoodie, Size 36
#6 Sammalikko Printed Leggings, Size 34

This is "Take Two" of the Ottobre Hoodie and Legging pattern for me.  First hoodie reviewed here.  Leggings reviewed here.  I found a great way to line the hood, which finishes the seam as well.   I had a light bulb moment so I thought I would share what I did.  I probably read this or saw it somewhere, but it really works well for this pattern if you want to line the hood!

Use the hood pattern piece to cut out a lining.  Attach the "hood" right sides together with the neckline.  Attach the "lining" right sides to WRONG sides of the neckline.  I basted all three layers of fabric together and then stitched with my serger.  

Next, flip your lining up and baste the hood and lining together before binding.


I purchased the jersey and Hacci sweater knit from Girl Charlee.

Thanks for stopping by ~ Shirley

Friday, September 19, 2014

Ottobre Skirt & Hoodie

Ottobre 5/2014
#9 Everyday Luxe Jersey Hoodie, Size 36
#10 Suopursu Bell-shaped Jersey Skirt, Size 34

This issue of Ottobre Woman is fabulous!  I absolutely love this outfit.  Fabrics were purchased from Girl Charlee--2 yards of baby blue solid cotton jersey knit (incredibly soft) & paint daubs floral modal cotton jersey knit,  It appeared that the two fabrics would be a good match.  It is hard to tell when you are shopping online having to rely on your computer screen to discern color, but it proved to be accurate!

I made everything according to Ottobre instructions.  Technically, this is a very easy sew. 

Look at these beautiful colors!  It definitely lends itself to a variety of matching knit tops.   The skirt is only ONE piece, which is cut out 3 times with a double layer of fabric.  Having bought 2 yards, I have enough left over to make one of my girls a skirt...the one that called dibs on the leftovers first!  Three panels are sewn together twice, creating a front and a back.   Then you attach the front and the back at the side seams.  Hem the bottom (made with my coverstitch machine) and then attach elastic at the top (basted with a zig zag stitch, turned down once and sewn with my coverstitch machine).  Finished!  How quick and painless is that?

 I added a lining to the hood.  I don't like to see the seam where the hood pieces are joined.  It is rare that I wear a hood that is attached to a shirt.  I think of it more as a design feature for looks.  I made the lining out of a white jersey knit.  I basted the two hood pieces together and then treated them as one when attaching to the neckline.  The inner neckline seam is covered by a piece of twill tape, as per the pattern instructions.

The back of the hoodie is a little longer than the front with a split hem at each side.  The bottom hem is sewn first and then the side hem is completed after completing the sleeve and side seams.

All I need now is to crochet or knit myself a nice chunky cowl scarf for when it gets cold.

I am wearing a necklace that was made from lava rock from Mt. Vesuvius.  

Thanks for stopping by ~ Shirley

Monday, September 15, 2014

Galaxy Dress

Butterick 4970 (7-8-10-12)
View A
Size 8
Alterations to Pattern:  Used a coordinating knit instead of a 
lace inset, as well as adding an additional ruffle 

My daughter asked for a galaxy outfit!  Ask and you shall receive,...thanks to Girl Charlee where I found this beautiful knit.  The tunic only requires 7/8 of a yard to make, 1 yard if making the largest pattern 12 size.  I was pleased to find I had a bold purple knit in my fabric stash; it coordinated perfectly!

With 1 yard of the purple knit, I had exactly enough for a pair of leggings, the bottom ruffle of the tunic, as well as the inset piece.  Since I already have a legging pattern that works well for us, I decided to use it instead of the capri leggings included with this pattern.  This jersey knit only had a slight stretch lengthwise, so I added a couple inches to compensate for this, as well as adding a band to the waist for the elastic.  It is always a relief when my improvisations work!

The purple ruffle is sewn right sides together with the bottom of the tunic top.  The galaxy knit ruffle was gathered with a long basting stitch and then zig zag stitched it to the top of the first ruffle seam.  I left the edges of this ruffle raw since knit doesn't fray.  I like the look.  The purple ruffle is hemmed with my coverstitch machine.

The neck, front openings, and armholes are sewn with a narrow hem.  For the neck line, I ironed half inch knit interfacing strips prior to hemming to insure that my fabric would not stretch out.  I also added a little vintage trim to the top of the inset.

Thanks for stopping by ~ Shirley