Tuesday, July 17, 2018

Ottobre 2-2013-07 Dress

Ottobre Women's 2-2013-07
Fancy Flower's Dress

Size 38
Alterations:  Swayback Adj, Shortened by 2.5 inches



Details:  Front and back are gathered to the double-layer shoulder yoke
Button placket with a small inverted pleat at the bottom
Back is gathered at the waistline with narrow elastic


I love this dress!  Only regret I have is not making this sooner.  I have pulled out this Ottobre issue every summer and thought to myself, "I want to make this dress."  I finally did and I am so happy.


Narrow hem. 


No adjustment to the depth of the armhole.  Don't you love it when that happens?  


Back yoke is slightly curved, but it's hard to see with my arm pulling it up.

I haven't made a button placket in such a long time, so I quickly made one up on some scrap fabric first.  The only part that gave me pause was the finishing at the bottom of the placket.  The two button bands (right on top of left) lay underneath the dress and the triangle created at the bottom by your slashes is folded underneath (thereby making that "triangle" with it's right side against the right side of the button band).  I hope this note makes since to me in the event I make this again and forget. ha ha


My white buttons really blend in to the fabric.  At first I thought 5 buttons would not be enough, but it was.

Challis fabric purchased at Joann's.

Thanks for stopping by ~ Shirley


Wednesday, July 11, 2018

Simplicity Sewing (1616 & 1716)

I was in the mood for some quick and simple sewing.  With these hot summer temperatures, a new skirt with a sleeveless top seemed like a good idea.


I have sewn from both of these patterns before, but now I'm sewing them up in a larger size.  Time will do that I guess...ha ha.  


Simplicity 1717:  This is my first go at the top.  I loved the dress here.  What appealed to me with this top is the drape of the neckline, which was relatively easy to accomplish.  There are pleats at the shoulder, as well as a one pleat at the armscye.  Overall I am very happy with the fit except for the armhole.  It's a little long on me, which I have now adjusted the pattern for, taking it in about 1/2 inch.


I really like the gathered seam, accomplished by sewing elastic to the front of the seam allowance for a few inches.


One addition I made to the pattern was to include a 1/4 inch piece of elastic underneath the back neck edge facing.  Without it, I found the neckline to gap outward.  This was covered by my hair, but it still bothered me just knowing it was there.  This helped to keep that pulled in a little.  I just made sure to pull the elastic only slightly so it didn't gather that area, but just stabilize it.


This skirt is great if you are looking for something very easy.  If you don't like basting and gathering, you should pass on it. LOL  The pattern makes this easier than most though because of the included pattern piece guide so you know exactly how much to gather.

The waistband is cut on the bias and has elastic inserted.  Other versions of this skirt are here and here.



I can't remember where I bought my shirt fabric.  It is a jersey knit with a 2-way stretch.  It was very cheap...one of those "you get what you pay for fabrics."  I'll be lucky if I get 5 washes and what is left will probably end up in the lint trap of the dryer!  LOL  My skirt fabric is Challis and purchased at Joann's.

On a personal note, I'm trying to transition my hair to gray.  It's kind of a crazy blondish gray right now.  I hope I can hold out.  I'm already past the "it's driving me crazy, I'm going to color it" feelings.  I'm feeling tired of coloring it.  It takes a couple of weeks after color before I like it and then gray creeps in.  It feels like a never-ending battle, so time will tell if I'm going to like it.

Thanks for stopping by ~ Shirley



Friday, June 29, 2018

Switching up the pockets on the Maritime Shorts

Grainline Maritime Shorts
with a Jalie Bobbie V-Neck Top


The last time I made the Maritime shorts, I made them with faux double welt pockets and didn't change out the front pockets.  I do like the pattern designed pockets, however, change is always fun, especially just because you can!  I had a pair of RTW shorts that I loved the front pockets on, both inside and out.  So, I got busy and did a rough trace of them just by laying a piece of paper on top of them and outlining the seam.  That was just the beginning.  I have to admit, it took me all morning long to figure out how they were made!  I was so tempted to take apart my RTW shorts pockets at one point, but perseverance paid off and I figured it out!


And just because I wanted to add even more time to the construction of these shorts (LOL), I decided to make single welt pockets for the back.  Honestly, I'm so happy I put forth the extra time and effort because I really love how they turned out.  It is actually very easy to line up your welt pockets.  I transferred the back pocket pattern marks to my fabric.  I used dark enough chalk that would show through a strip of interfacing.  Then, I simply placed a pin at each outer edge of the pocket marks where the pins would stick out on the right side.  At this point, I just put my welt pocket fabric right over the pins, which held it in place while I secured my fabric with other pins.


I made a picture tutorial for myself so I would not forget how to assemble my pocket pattern pieces should I make them again.




For my Bobbie top, this time I made a couple more alterations for an even better fit.  I decided to shorten it by 2 inches.  I also bought up the neckline by 1/2 inch.  To do this, I put my ruler right at the "V," measuring up 1/2 inch and made a mark.  Then I used a curved ruler to blend the neckline up to the notch.


My shorts fabric is Lyocell--they are so soft and comfortable!  My shirt fabric is rayon/spandex.  Both fabrics were purchased at Joann's.

Thanks for stopping by ~ Shirley



Saturday, June 23, 2018

New Jalie 3880 Bobbie V-Neck Top

 Jalie 3880
Bobbie V-Neck
Size T
Alterations:  1/2" Forward Shoulder and Sloped Shoulder Adjustment


I love this top!  It is so quick and easy to make!  In fact, all sewing was accomplished on my sewing machine alone--stretch stitch, zig zag stitch, and straight stitch.

I am desperately in need of summer tops and I will be filling up my closet with several of these.


The cropped, tank-like facing is genius.  Here you can see that it nicely covers your undergarments.


I did make make a muslin in some inexpensive knit to test fit.  I determined that my shoulder seam sat too far back and needed to be adjusted to come forward.  I went ahead and sloped my shoulder seam by 1/4" since I have had to do that on some tops.  Maybe it wasn't necessary, but I had plenty of depth to play with, so I figured it wouldn't hurt.

My fabric is a jersey knit purchased from Joann Fabrics.  Lately they have had some very pretty knits.


My shorts are made from Jalie 2908 jeans pattern.


Thanks for Stopping by ~ Shirley

Sunday, June 17, 2018

Revisiting Maritime Shorts

 Grainline Maritime Shorts
with Jalie Scarf-collar Top


I've made these Maritime shorts before here.  Four years and a couple sizes larger now, I had to make a few more adjustments.  For starters, always a swayback.  Then I had to make a 1/2 inch full seat adjustment, as well as scooping out the back crotch just to be sure I had enough room!  ha ha
I didn't plan on making a muslin, but it turned out that way since there was no way they were fitting my bottom on the first try!  They were way too tight without any ease to speak of.


I also added 2.25 inches to the pattern length.  The pattern instructions have you turn up 1/4 inch and then 1/4 inch again.  I made my hem wider, turning up 1/4 inch and then another whole inch.  

I changed my back pockets this time.  With my "muslin," I made the back pockets according to the pattern; however, with such a busy print, you couldn't even tell they were there.  Recently I bought a pair of shorts (that surprisingly fit me very well....that happens almost never) and there were faux double welt pockets on the back.  I really, really liked that detail, so I made them.  I have to say, it was a little tricky getting them to line up evenly.  When I looked at my RTW shorts, those weren't perfectly aligned at all...big surprise, huh?  Needless to say, that took the pressure off and I knew I could do better at the very least--I think they turned out pretty good.


Here is a closer look at the faux double welts I made.


Now that I have perfected my overall fit, I want to change up the front pockets; I want them to be accessible on a slant.  So, I will play around with pattern drafting for that and if successful, I'll be making another pair of shorts with that detail soon.

My top is a previous make from here.


Here is a recap of my last four outfits that were made with the new Jalie pattern releases.


While on a recent family vacation to St. Louis, I made a new P4P Favorite Tee Dress to wear.



Thanks for stopping by ~ Shirley



Friday, June 15, 2018

New Jalie Pattern Rose Top

Rose Top 3881
Size T
Alterations:  Swayback and forward shoulder adjustment


Another great summer staple that Jalie has just released!  This is a cute button-up top, so easy to pair with shorts and jeans.


Your options include chest pockets with armhole binding or neck tie with armhole binding and ruffle.  Other nice details are back yoke and back pleat (which is a little hard to see with my busy print).


This is the BEST collar pattern piece and instructions I have ever followed.  I don't know how Jalie improved upon what others have not, but I completely 100% recommend this pattern for that alone!  If you have struggled with collars in the past or if you are new to sewing a collar, this IS the pattern you should start with.  You will have perfect results.


Jalie includes finished length measurements for the top, and as you can see this is a little long on me, but I am petite and chose to leave this at the length it was.  I like to tie my ends for a different look (picture at the end of this blog post).

You can hardly see my buttons--they blend in so well with the flowers.


I also French seamed my side seams to have clean finishes since all other seams are enclosed.  It looks nice inside and out!

I did find that my armholes ran a little low exposing my bra, which may be due to using Rayon Challis fabric, which is quite drapey.  Since there was enough ease, I was able to take in my side seams an additional 1/2" without negatively impacting my fit, which raised the armhole for me.



And here I am with my ends tied at my waist.  My shorts are Jalie 2908 Jeans pattern shortened.

Monday, June 11, 2018

New Jalie Pattern Mimosa

Mimosa 3890
Size T
Alterations:  1/2" Swayback Adjustment


The Mimosa is Jalie's new scoopneck tee!  Here I have chosen View C with short self-tie sleeves.  Other views include short rolled up sleeves with a breast pocket or long sleeves with a flounce.




Jalie includes finished length measurements in the pattern instructions so you can adjust for fit if necessary.  I love the length because it is perfect to wear with leggings.  I like to have a long enough length to cover my bottom.


I did use thin strips of knit interfacing to stabilize my hems on my sleeves since they require top stitching.  I tried without but could not achieve a stable straight stitch that I was happy with, which was probably due to my fabric stretch.


My fabric print looks like a big blob of ink on my shirt right at the center front! LOL  Pattern placement, something I don't always (never) think about until after it's too late.  

Coordinated my top with the new Clara Legging pattern.

Fabric for my top purchased at Joann's.
Fabric for my leggings purchased at Knitpop.com.

Thanks for stopping by ~ Shirley