Tuesday, May 17, 2016

Linen Drawstring Pants

New Look 6055 (Pants/Shorts)
Version A, Size 12
Alterations:  Several

Where to start with these pants?!  First off, I purchased this coral linen at Hancock Fabrics for less than $3 a yard.  I think the original price was close to $16 a yard.  I grabbed 3 yards for my stash.  I purchased the fabric for maybe a dress, but after prewashing it, I thought it might be a little too heavy and stiff.  So, pants were the next thought.  I looked through my pattern stash and came up with New Look 6055.  Looking at the model, I knew there would be more fabric at the waist than I would want.  I should have considered sizing down, down, and down again!  Seriously!  I was a little afraid to make changes initially without seeing exactly what I would be dealing with.  I looked online and linen pants are very roomy, so I didn't want to cut away and do something wrong.  Plus, I didn't want to make a muslin.  Sometimes that just seems like way too much work.

What I like--I love the side cargo pocket.  It is nice and big with a buttoned flap!

Changes I made--I created 2 darts at the back waist.  These pants were a series of sewing, putting on, pinning fabric out, resewing, etc.  I dismissed any thoughts of altering the pattern at this point because of the way I made the alterations.  There was so much fabric to eliminate and I had to do it a little at a time.  I took in the front and  back crotch seams, probably a good inch in addition to sewing my 5/8" seam.  Six inches were removed at the waist alone.  I also shorted the front crotch depth.   Then, I took the center leg seam in by an inch!  I know, my alterations are all over the place, but I think that covers what I had to do.

My shirt is covering up the darts here.  I got the idea of darts from looking online at other linen pants.  I liked that feature and wanted to include it for mine as well.  I did not make the tabs at the bottom of my pants because I didn't want them tight around my ankles.

I used eyelets instead of button holes at the waist.  I got them a little high.  I pulled my drawstring cord out of a romper I made a while back that no longer fits me.  There is also 1 inch elastic in the waist.

I also like the nice and big front pockets!

I put vinyl on my shirt using my Silhouette Cameo--love that machine!!

I tossed out my pattern but kept the pocket pieces to use again with a different pattern.  I'm happy with my pants, but I think the same pants could be more easily accomplished with an elastic waist trouser pattern that doesn't have as much ease built into it.  However, I did get the pattern to work for me and New Look patterns are very reasonably priced.  

Thanks for stopping by ~ Shirley

Wednesday, May 11, 2016

Jalie Jean (Shorts) with Sleeveless Top

Jalie Jeans Pattern 2908
Size S
Fabric:  Kaufman 6oz Stretch Denim Indigo from Fabric.com


Ottobre 2/2013, #3 Buttondown Sleeveless Blouse
Size 38
Alterations:  1/2 inch swayback, removed 2 inches from length
Fabric:  Magenta/Navy Lawn from Fashion Fabrics Club

Oh my gosh....this is going to be my go-to outfit for summer!  I love it!

My fabric for the top is fairly sheer, so I am wearing a black camisole top underneath.  The fabric also frays terribly, so I made French seams.  This was a little tricky since I only added 3/8 inch seam allowances!  Had I examined my fabric a little more closely, I would have definitely traced a larger seam allowance.


I did consider cutting an inch off after it was already hemmed to bring it up a little, but hemming this fabric took time and I decided it isn't "too" long to deal with.  I made this top a couple of years ago, shortening it by 5".  This time I chose to shorten it by 2" since I had to retrace my pattern in a larger size.

I'm always keeping an eye out for a good shorts pattern.  Then it occurred to me that I can use the awesome Jalie jean pattern and just make them into shorts!

 For the length, I used the top portion of the pattern only.  I brought out the inner leg seam by 1/2" at the bottom, tapering up and rejoining the the original pattern line about 5 or so inches up.  I also darted out 1/4" on the back yoke piece to adjust for my swayback, also taking in 1/2" on the CB waistband.

This fabric is 96% cotton with 4% spandex, giving it plenty of stretch and the denim is very soft.  I added a piece of stay tape in the top of the waist band.  I should have added a piece of interfacing at the section of the buttonhole since my fabric isn't very thick.  I turned up the cuff on the bottom twice, tacking it at the seams only.

Thanks for stopping by ~ Shirley

Thursday, May 5, 2016

Shirtzie Dress

SUAT Shirtzie Dress
Size Small with Size 3 Band
Fabric:  ITY Knit & Kaufman Laguna Stretch from Fabric.com
Alteration:  I used the skirt from the Brazi Pattern

I think this dress may be the most comfortable dress I have ever worn.  I opted to skip the lining for the bodice.  My fabric is thick enough with one layer.  If you do this, you will also have to cut a neckband.  I measured the neckline and cut my band 3" less, which seemed to work well for me with the amount of stretch in the Kaufman Laguna jersey. 

One of my favorite details of this dress is the shape of the neckline.  

I chose to combine the bodice with SUAT's Brazi skirt since it is only gathered in the center front and back.  The Shirtzie skirt looks to be gathered more and I prefer fewer gathers. 

I like how bands are used instead of hems at the sleeve edge.  Elastic is also sewn onto the waistband seam allowance.  Two bands are sewn together with the elastic sandwiched in between. 

So far this is my second SUAT pattern and I'm very impressed!  The fit is perfect!  

I was able to make one of my girls an outfit with the fabric I had left over from my dress!  I started with Jalie 2805 shirt pattern and then used an Ottobre tank pattern to narrow the shoulders and make the right-sized armholes.  For the skirt, I used Simplicity #1675.

It is definitely a wearable muslin.  Next time I need to lengthen the armholes and definitely make the skirt longer.  I threw this together while my daughter was at school, hoping that she would like it--she does!  I added the white band to make it look even more different from my dress.  No "mommy and me" outfits for this girl.  That's a deal breaker! ha ha

I left it unhemmed.

When she lifted her arm, the armhole wasn't too high, but in a relaxed pose, it looks like it is.  I used a size 158 to base the armhole on, but my kids are growing like sunflowers and just straight up!  I can't keep up with their growth spurts.

For my son, I made him a lounging outfit, although he has worn the tank top to school.  I figured he would.  I used my Silhouette Cameo to cut out the HTV vinyl.  I wish I could have made the graphics bigger, but I'm low on supplies.  I'm still learning how to use my machine, so sadly not all vinyl has made it to fabric.  A lot has ended up in my trash.  However, a lot of my sewing received the same fate in earlier years.

How cool is the Walking Dead fabric for the shorts?  I bought this on Fabric.com.  Did I really think I could cut out a men's XS size (Simplicity 1021) in just one yard of fabric?  Sigh.  No pockets here and I also had to cut the waistband from some white knit fabric.  Actually, that made for comfy shorts to lounge in though since the other fabric is 100% cotton.  His tank top is made from Laguna jersey knit.

You can see here where I used knit for the waistband.  I didn't alter the waistband size since elastic is used for a secure fit.

Thanks for stopping by ~ Shirley