Wednesday, November 14, 2018

Another Delila

Angela Wolf 
The Delila Pattern #AW1531


I really like this pattern.  I've made it before, here and here.  As far as the pattern itself, it is one of my favorites.  Angela Wolf paper patterns are so well made and put together.  The instructions are very beginner friendly too.


Angela Wolf made a video demonstrating how to remove the color from your fabric; it is quite easy to do.  I bought a box of Rit Color Remover from Joann Fabrics.  I actually just used half the package for one shirt and saved the other half for this shirt.


I purchased my black rayon jersey knit from Joann Fabrics.  The cool part of using the color remover is the surprise you get once you are done.  I had no idea what it would look like till I cut off the rubber bands.  I really thought I would end up with shades of gray and I don't understand why I didn't.  Maybe I should have let the remover sit longer?  However, I am still really pleased with my results.  I have yet to make this pattern with just a solid or print fabric, which I still plan to do.


Color remover is used prior to sewing on the sleeve cuffs and neckband (per Angela's demonstration in the video).


If you haven't tried this, you really should...it is so much FUN!

My jeans are Jalie Jeans.

Thanks for stopping by ~ Shirley



Wednesday, November 7, 2018

American Ships Quilt--FINISHED!


Ruby McKim
American Ships Quilt



If you have been following my blog, you know that I have been working on this for years...9 years in fact!  I'm so excited to have completed this labor of love for my son.  

Once upon a time, my little boy of 8 years was standing over my shoulder while I was researching quilt patterns.  As I was looking at this pattern, my son said, "Momma, can you make me this quilt?"  YES I can!    At the time, I didn't know a thing about embroidery.  Thank goodness for online tutorials.


I often thought about how I would quilt this.  I was concerned about the delicate embroidery threads and knew that I would have to be very, very careful once I pieced everything together by machine.  The last thing I would want is to snag any of my threads.  I decided to forego any free motion quilting since there was already so much detail.  Once I got to the point of layering it together, I realized that it would look pretty amazing if I just outline stitched as much of the embroidery as possible.  It really helped for the embroidery to "pop" visually.  It sounds like a lot of work, but after the hours upon hours of embroidering, it was so much fun to machine stitch.

Here is the link to the pattern if you are interested in making this for yourself--American Ships Quilt

According to the website, this pattern was first published in 1937 by Ruby McKim.  I love the history behind it, which you can read about by clicking the link above.

According to the pattern, the center ship could be done as an applique, however, I decided to embroider it as well.

Once I got to the point of assembly, I cut a clear square template to trace a cutting line around all my blocks, ensuring each ship was centered.  I'm not very accurate with just a ruler and rotary cutter.  I had to make my template twice just to get a perfect square!


I forgot how much fun quilting was.  My passion is sewing clothing, but I'm already thinking about working on another quilt....not embroidering one though!  I'd like to keep with quicker projects for now.  It is going to feel strange to not have to work on this.

Thanks for stopping by ~ Shirley

Friday, October 5, 2018

Finlayson Sweater

Thread Theory
Finlayson Sweater
Size S




 The Finlayson is a men's sweater that is available in 2 variations--shawl collar or hoodie, ranging in sizes from XS to XXL.  I asked my son which version he would prefer and it was no surprise to me that he chose the hoodie.  I have been making him hoodies for years.   I was able to find two sweater fabrics from Fabric.com that I felt would be a great look for my son.


The hood is lined.

When sewing the shoulder seams, I attached a 5/8" strip of black interfacing to the backside fabric.

The sweater features a unique squared neckline.  I also attached a small piece of interfacing here so my fabric would not stretch out while handling or sewing.


And if you choose, there is also a kangaroo pocket pattern piece.  If my son's hands were not in his pockets, it would be difficult to see!





This is my first Thread Theory pattern (PDF) and I am very pleased.  

Fabrics used:
Hacci Sweater Knit Aztec Black/Brown $6.98 a yard
Runway Threads Sweater Knit two Tone Black $7.98 a yard

I am very close to finishing my son's American Ship's Quilt!  This week I have been embroidering the large center ship piece.  Next task will be to trace the ropes, which will surround the center piece.  I cannot believe I am about to start sewing the ships together.  I started this project nearly 9 years ago when he was 8 years old! I have a few of the ships on my "American Ships Quilt" page located at the top of my blog.

Thanks for stopping by ~ Shirley

Sunday, September 9, 2018

Charlie Bomber Jacket in Harry Potter Fleece

Jalie Pattern
Charlie Bomber Jacket
Size Q


I love this jacket.  It truly is very easy and quick to sew together.  So easy, you can make several!  I have reviewed it before, here and here.  This time, being the Harry Potter fan that she is, my daughter requested one in this Hufflepuff fleece fabric.


Fabric purchased from Joann Fabrics.


My daughter loves themed clothing.  Ever since I started sewing regularly for her, she has been very specific with what she wants.  I love this about her because she challenges me to think more creatively when it comes to my sewing.  Here are a few of my favorites (hers too) that I have made for her.





Thanks for stopping by ~ Shirley


Thursday, August 30, 2018

Finally...White Shorts!

Rarely do I remake something immediately again, but ever since making and wearing this outfit, it has become an absolute favorite of mine.  It's comfortable, casual, and my-kind-of-style.  I still had my pattern pieces on my sewing table!


My top, McCalls 7391, is made this time with a collar.  I must say, I prefer this finish over the facing option I used last time.  However, this collar is not for the beginner.  I am no rookie when it comes to collars, but this one takes some extra effort.  After stay stitching the neckline, some clipping is necessary when attaching the collar stand.  It just seemed to take longer than I am accustomed to when assembling collars.

I took better care this time with my eyelet placement, ensuring they were even on each side.  For the tie, I cut a 1 inch strip of fabric and fed it through my bias tape tool.  This was much easier than make a "tube" as I did last time.


Ahhhh, these Ottobre Safari shorts are the BEST.  I could sew up one in every color!  They are perfect in every way.






Shorts fabric:  Stretch Slub white denim from Fabric.com
Shirt Fabric:  Purchased from Joann's

Thanks for stopping by ~ Shirley



Tuesday, August 7, 2018

Ottobre Summer Safari Shorts with McCalls 7391

First up is my review of

McCall's 7391
Size 12

Alterations:  Forward shoulder, swayback adjustment, lowered sleeve cap to remove excess ease,
raised placket by 1.75 inches, and removed curved hemline after completion and finished again with a narrow hem.  I did find that the blouse was a little snug at the hips, so I unpicked my stitches from the dart down and gradually went from a 5/8 inch seam to 1/4 inch for a little extra room.



 Details:  Bust dart, back shoulder dart, eyelets, short sleeves with cuff band, neckline facing

I decided immediately that the placket would need to be shortened. By the looks of the pattern envelope model, it would be too low on me.



I like it!  It was a bit challenging trying to pattern match, but I think it turned out well considering how fiddly challis can be.  Instead of purchased lacing, I made my own out of the same blouse fabric.  It took me 3 attempts until I was satisfied with my fabric strip.  My first try was a tube that was too wide; it overpowered the eyelets.  My second attempt would be too narrow of a tube to turn with my turning tool. Below is a picture I took showing how to do this without a tool.  Do not use yarn (pictured below).  It will break.  With my third attempt, I used some cord, but it was too thick.  It was made of twisted braids, so I just separated the braids and used one.  This was much stronger than the yarn (no picture).  I used my zipper foot to sew as close as possible, without stitching through or on the cord.  With a little patience, it works well.



My eyelets aren't perfectly even on each side of the placket.  Measure and measure again before you punch your holes.
  

Next up is my review of

Ottobre 02-2017-05
Summer Safari Shorts
Size 38

Alterations:  Swayback adj, scooped out the butt a little, and flipped zipper opening to the right (because I always use Jalie 2908 jeans zipper instructions and they open to the right and it confuses me to switch it around in my brain!)


I'm thrilled with these!  The Tencel fabric is a perfect weight and makes for a dressier pair of shorts too.

Details:  Front Dart, deep pockets, elasticized back waistband, belt loops, velcro pocket flaps above back pockets.


I thought with the elastic that I would not need a swayback adjustment, which is normal for me to make with non elasticized pants and shorts.  However, removing 1/2 inch at the CB seam, eliminated some fabric that seemed to be too much when pulled together by the elastic.  I made this adjustment on my pattern for next time.  I prefer not altering the CB seam and pinching out a 1/2 inch dart more towards the center of my pattern.



 Shorts Fabric:  Kaufman Tencel Slub Indigo Fabric.com
Shirt Fabric:  Rayon Challis Joann's Fabrics

Thanks for stopping by ~ Shirley


Tuesday, July 17, 2018

Ottobre 2-2013-07 Dress

Ottobre Women's 2-2013-07
Fancy Flower's Dress

Size 38
Alterations:  Swayback Adj, Shortened by 2.5 inches



Details:  Front and back are gathered to the double-layer shoulder yoke
Button placket with a small inverted pleat at the bottom
Back is gathered at the waistline with narrow elastic


I love this dress!  Only regret I have is not making this sooner.  I have pulled out this Ottobre issue every summer and thought to myself, "I want to make this dress."  I finally did and I am so happy.


Narrow hem. 


No adjustment to the depth of the armhole.  Don't you love it when that happens?  


Back yoke is slightly curved, but it's hard to see with my arm pulling it up.

I haven't made a button placket in such a long time, so I quickly made one up on some scrap fabric first.  The only part that gave me pause was the finishing at the bottom of the placket.  The two button bands (right on top of left) lay underneath the dress and the triangle created at the bottom by your slashes is folded underneath (thereby making that "triangle" with it's right side against the right side of the button band).  I hope this note makes since to me in the event I make this again and forget. ha ha


My white buttons really blend in to the fabric.  At first I thought 5 buttons would not be enough, but it was.

Challis fabric purchased at Joann's.

Thanks for stopping by ~ Shirley


Wednesday, July 11, 2018

Simplicity Sewing (1616 & 1716)

I was in the mood for some quick and simple sewing.  With these hot summer temperatures, a new skirt with a sleeveless top seemed like a good idea.


I have sewn from both of these patterns before, but now I'm sewing them up in a larger size.  Time will do that I guess...ha ha.  


Simplicity 1717:  This is my first go at the top.  I loved the dress here.  What appealed to me with this top is the drape of the neckline, which was relatively easy to accomplish.  There are pleats at the shoulder, as well as a one pleat at the armscye.  Overall I am very happy with the fit except for the armhole.  It's a little long on me, which I have now adjusted the pattern for, taking it in about 1/2 inch.


I really like the gathered seam, accomplished by sewing elastic to the front of the seam allowance for a few inches.


One addition I made to the pattern was to include a 1/4 inch piece of elastic underneath the back neck edge facing.  Without it, I found the neckline to gap outward.  This was covered by my hair, but it still bothered me just knowing it was there.  This helped to keep that pulled in a little.  I just made sure to pull the elastic only slightly so it didn't gather that area, but just stabilize it.


This skirt is great if you are looking for something very easy.  If you don't like basting and gathering, you should pass on it. LOL  The pattern makes this easier than most though because of the included pattern piece guide so you know exactly how much to gather.

The waistband is cut on the bias and has elastic inserted.  Other versions of this skirt are here and here.



I can't remember where I bought my shirt fabric.  It is a jersey knit with a 2-way stretch.  It was very cheap...one of those "you get what you pay for fabrics."  I'll be lucky if I get 5 washes and what is left will probably end up in the lint trap of the dryer!  LOL  My skirt fabric is Challis and purchased at Joann's.

On a personal note, I'm trying to transition my hair to gray.  It's kind of a crazy blondish gray right now.  I hope I can hold out.  I'm already past the "it's driving me crazy, I'm going to color it" feelings.  I'm feeling tired of coloring it.  It takes a couple of weeks after color before I like it and then gray creeps in.  It feels like a never-ending battle, so time will tell if I'm going to like it.

Thanks for stopping by ~ Shirley



Friday, June 29, 2018

Switching up the pockets on the Maritime Shorts

Grainline Maritime Shorts
with a Jalie Bobbie V-Neck Top


The last time I made the Maritime shorts, I made them with faux double welt pockets and didn't change out the front pockets.  I do like the pattern designed pockets, however, change is always fun, especially just because you can!  I had a pair of RTW shorts that I loved the front pockets on, both inside and out.  So, I got busy and did a rough trace of them just by laying a piece of paper on top of them and outlining the seam.  That was just the beginning.  I have to admit, it took me all morning long to figure out how they were made!  I was so tempted to take apart my RTW shorts pockets at one point, but perseverance paid off and I figured it out!


And just because I wanted to add even more time to the construction of these shorts (LOL), I decided to make single welt pockets for the back.  Honestly, I'm so happy I put forth the extra time and effort because I really love how they turned out.  It is actually very easy to line up your welt pockets.  I transferred the back pocket pattern marks to my fabric.  I used dark enough chalk that would show through a strip of interfacing.  Then, I simply placed a pin at each outer edge of the pocket marks where the pins would stick out on the right side.  At this point, I just put my welt pocket fabric right over the pins, which held it in place while I secured my fabric with other pins.


I made a picture tutorial for myself so I would not forget how to assemble my pocket pattern pieces should I make them again.




For my Bobbie top, this time I made a couple more alterations for an even better fit.  I decided to shorten it by 2 inches.  I also bought up the neckline by 1/2 inch.  To do this, I put my ruler right at the "V," measuring up 1/2 inch and made a mark.  Then I used a curved ruler to blend the neckline up to the notch.


My shorts fabric is Lyocell--they are so soft and comfortable!  My shirt fabric is rayon/spandex.  Both fabrics were purchased at Joann's.

Thanks for stopping by ~ Shirley