Thursday, January 25, 2018

Jalie 3669 - NICO - Men's Raglan Tee

Size S 
Fabric Type:  Cotton Spandex Gray & Olive

I love this pattern!  If you are like me and trying to sew for a teenage boy, you have all but exhausted sewing with the Big 4 patterns...a long time ago.  Once your son hits about 14, it's pretty much on to men's patterns, hoping they won't be too big.   Problem solved with Jalie's Nico which comes in 27 sizes!  You can sew for the tiniest of tots all the way up to a men's XXL.

Sewing the Nico comes together quite fast and easily.  What slowed me down was deciding what type of hem and thread color choice I wanted.  I have a new Brother CV 3550 which does the top cover stitch you see used on the shirt hem;  I love using a two-color thread combo here.  I also like how it gives it a hint of color to match the sleeve.  

The first raglan I sewed for my son, a gray/blue combination, I tried using the top cover stitch around the neckline which ended up looking too thread heavy if that makes since.  It's always a struggle for me combining different color fabrics in a raglan and being happy with one thread color choice over another.  It is either going to blend or contrast.  I think I finally hit on a good balance this time!

I could have sewn up a size smaller, but I like there to be a little room for growth with the assurance he can wear it for a while.  

Thanks for stopping by ~ Shirley

Monday, January 22, 2018

Girls Simplicity for basic Ts and Cardigan

Simplicity 8105
Girls Size 14
Fabric Type:  Rayon Jersey Knit

My daughter desperately needed some basic tops for school.  Try as we might, we just couldn't find anything in the stores that she liked.

This is what, or rather what she did not want, that I had to avoid:

No "V" neck
Not too high of a neckline, nor too low
Not too wide at the bottom hem and no high/low hem

So I chose Simplicity 8105 as my base pattern to work with.

As you can see, view C has a 2 piece back, with the lower piece having gathers.  To eliminate this, I laid the top piece above the bottom, overlapping the would-be-seam allowances and taping together.  I then drew a line from the width of the top edge to the base of the lower bodice piece, removing some of the overall width.  I also made the front and back pieces the same length.

I also lowered the neckline.  I cut the neckband 2 x 21 inches, folded wrong sides together, and stitched it to the wrong side of the neckline.  Then I folded it over the top, enclosing the seam.  This is my preferred neckband method for rayon knits.  My daughter loves it!

Rayon jersey knit has such a nice drape to it.

All the shirt fabrics were purchased from Fashion Fabrics when they were having a sale on their knits.  I purchased 1.25 yards of each color for $3.95 a yard.  Each top cost just under $5 to make!

 Simplicity 8184
Girls Size 16
Fabric Type: Rayon Jersey Knit

My daughter picked out a cardigan style she liked at the mall and said, "can you make this?"
This pattern was basically the same thing but obviously a lot cheaper to recreate.

To stabilize the back neckline, the instructions said to use bias tape.  In lieu of this, I cut a strip of black polyester lining fabric which worked quite well.  All edges are simply turned up and hemmed...painstakingly time consuming for such a simple cardigan LOL.

The two patterns pair nicely together, giving her that basic casual look she wanted.

Thanks for stopping by ~ Shirley

Saturday, January 13, 2018

The Reina Shirt

 PAULINE ALICE - Reina Shirt
Size 38
Fabric:  Rayon Challis
Alterations:  Added 1.5 inches to the top bodice and added 1 extra button

I purchased this PDF pattern from Pauline Alice last summer but never got around to sewing it up.  Upon looking at the instructions, I knew this wasn't going to be a fast make for me, so I needed to wait until the mood struck for some fine-detail sewing.  This is View A, long sleeves, with a tie.  I'd also like to mention that Pauline Alice patterns match up beautifully.  This is my second PDF pattern purchase, and just like the first, no issues with lines matching up.

You definitely want a fabric with significant amount of drape.  For a clean finish, I sewed French seams, except at the shoulder sleeve.  That is something I haven't quite figured out how to do yet.

I love the cuffs, which have 4 buttons.  I was very happy to discover that if I unbuttoned the one at the wrist, I could slip the blouse off without unbuttoning any others, including those down the front!

The button loops are fiddly to work with.  I didn't have a tool to turn them since they are so narrowly sewn at a 1/4", but a bobby pin works brilliantly.

1) Trim seam.
2) Cut a notch (fold over about an inch and clip).
3) Slide one arm of your bobby pin through your tube.
4) Put the other arm of your bobby pin in at the notch.

The bodice back is gathered before attaching to the yoke; it's hard to see with the print of my fabric. 

Thanks for stopping by ~ Shirley