Friday, April 26, 2019

Simplicity Pattern #1804

View D
Size 12/14
Fabric:   Silky Crinkle Rayon
Alterations:  Shortened by 3",  Bodice cut at size 12,  Skirt started at a 12 and then graded out to a 14

I am really happy with my new dress!  Fabric recommendation on the pattern envelope says sized for stretch knits only.  However, after looking at the construction assembly, the back bodice is made with 3 elastic casings and I didn't understand why it couldn't be made in a woven.  I quickly threw together a muslin of just the bodice in case I was failing to see the importance of the knit requirement.  I even sized up to a 14, but that was not needed.  The bodice was easily going to fit me in my usual size 12 even with a woven.

While constructing the bodice drape at step 5, I stitched down the area pressed under since I was working with a woven.  If I make this dress again, I will definitely finish my edges prior to assembling.  With a knit, this would not be necessary and is not included in the instructions.

I did not need the amount of elastic indicated by the elastic guide.  I cut a one yard piece of elastic into 3 parts and still had to remove an additional inch from each casing.  Step 21 tells you exactly the measurements for each casing and the width from one another that you will stitch.  There is some gathering at the base of the bodice back prior to making your casings.  Next time I will definitely make the casings BEFORE that step (don't put the elastic in yet though because you still need to sew the bodice to the skirt back).  It's a bit of a challenge to keep your stitching line straight dealing with the gathers.

Crinkle rayon seemed like a good choice for this dress as it is light and breezy.  You definitely don't want to have to put an iron to it if it can be avoided because the crinkles flatten and your fabric will grow.  So, I opted for a narrow hem to keep from having to use my iron.  

To make a narrow hem, I folded my fabric to the wrong side by 1/2" (sewing with the wrong side up), and stitched a 1/4" seam.  Trim carefully right against your stitches and then fold over once more, stitching from the wrong side.  

I think this makes a great dress for summer, but because of the tie option
around the neck, I wouldn't want to wear it if it becomes too hot.  The ties are pretty, but they are rather thick.

Thanks for stopping by ~ Shirley