Wednesday, April 29, 2020

Sewing outside of my comfort zone

Ottobre Woman 2-2019
#4 Explorer Pants
#8 Traveller Hat

Simplicity 1366 Cynthia Rowley 
View C Top

I have made something totally different to what I normally wear.  I felt like taking a step out of my comfort zone with my sewing and tried something new to me... I really like the results!

The cami top is pretty simple, so nothing much to elaborate on except this is the first time I have made one for myself.  My fabric is absolutely perfect for it and was an awesome find at Hobby Lobby.  The top is cut on the bias, so takes more fabric to make it than you would think.  The straps are a thin tube of fabric which I thought would be painful to turn, but pattern instructions tell you to use a thread and needle and amazingly, with patience, it worked quite well.  Upon basting the straps in between the fabric and the facing, I discovered I needed to trim 3/4" off to avoid the top from dropping too low.  Not surprising since I always have to tighten up every bra strap I'v had.  
I cut out size 12, grading to a 14 at the hips.  For the narrow hem, I turned up the bottom about 1/2 inch and sewed quite close to the fold, trimmed, and then turned up once more keeping the hem quite narrow and stitched again.  

The pants!!  I'm on a mission to learn fitting with a woven it seems.  I have the book "Pants for Real People" and this helped tremendously!  I bought this book years ago, but at the time, it was really over my head and then it just sat on my shelf for a long time.  I highly recommend this book even if you are just learning to sew.  One day it will definitely be of benefit to you when you are ready to learn more.

I knew immediately that this style of pants would require lowering the waistband.  A high waist does not work on me because then I will have no length in my torso.  In "Pants for Real People," tissue fitting is explained.  In the past I would hold up a pattern against my body and look in the mirror and say, "that looks about right."  Yep.  Well, that is not very effective obviously.  So this time, I followed the book and pinned my paper pattern tissue together and slid my leg into it very carefully.  This will tell you a lot before you even get to working with a muslin.  I was able to see that fabric would need to be removed below my bottom, requiring the 1/2" tuck.  Also, I was able to mark on the tissue where I wanted my waistband to be attached so it wouldn't swallow up my torso!

My alterations:

Removed 10" from length because I am short!  ha ha  (5'1)
1/2" tuck on back from waist to hem
Lowered back waist 1" tapering to 2" at the front
1/2" full derriere
1/4" bottom scoop
full thigh adjustment of 1/4" to top inseam on front pattern piece only
Removed 5/8" from height of waistband pieces.
My elastic measurement was 16.5 inches.

Fabric is an indigo twill from Fashion Fabrics online.

And I made myself a hat!

The brim on this pattern is very, very wide.  After sewing and top stitching my brim, I cut two inches off so I could see from underneath it and also so I wouldn't have it lying on the back of my neck.  Then I was faced with what to do with the raw edge left.  I still had some white twill left over that I cut my hat pieces from and made some bias binding to finish the edge.

Embroidery design is from Embroidery Library 
Blossoming Bohemian Flower Spray

Thanks for stopping by ~ Shirley

Sunday, April 12, 2020

Burda Style Cargo Pocket Pants

Burda Style Magazine
12/2009 #116
Cargo Pants

I love a good pair of cargo pocket pants!!  I bought this issue of Burda Style specifically to make them.  Then it took me about 5 years to get around to sewing them up.  I wish I had not waited so long, but they are quite an investment of time.  I knew that I had to make a muslin, which turned into another muslin, and additional tweaking before I was satisfied with the fit.

My alterations list:

Extend front waistband by 1 inch. (I like having more fabric to work with than what a pattern usually allows)
Raised the knee by 1 inch (I'm 5'1)
Lowered front waist by 5/8"
Added fly front to pattern
Added 1/4" to back pattern for full thighs
Straighten center front to gain width in waist (not needed and now a little too big)
Moved button hole inward by 1/2" on large pocket flap
Added 1/2" wedge at the back crotch for full derriere
Scooped back crotch
Sewed waistband @ 5/8" seams to reduce some height
Removed 2.75" from length
Hemmed by turning up 5/8" and then 5/8" again
Sewed belt loops into waistband

I love the curved back yoke detail.

The cargo pocket instructions on the lower leg are terrible!  I also missed the instructions to cut 2 side pocket fold pieces AND didn't have enough fabric left to cut them with the added seam allowances.  However, I'm very happy with how they turned out and if I make them again, I will make them exactly the same.  If I had added the s/a to the side pocket pieces, my pockets would have been much fuller.  Being short, I don't need my pockets to flare out that big.

If you make these and need a little help with the pockets, here are some visual aids.  I don't know if my way is what Burda Style intended with their instructions because I gave up trying to make heads or tails of them. 

I have paired by pants with Jalie 2682.  Pants fabric is brushed twill and the top fabric is DTY, both from

Thanks for stopping by ~ Shirley